Population 17k, elevation 2,149 m (7,051 ft)
I arrived in Villa de Leyva 1-2h later than expected (not sure why after all this time I still get so worked up and surprised by the transportation delays, even the planes are late here 🙈) as well as utterly exhausted after that San Agustin - Bogota night bus, plus Bogota - Medellin - Bogota flights-to-recover-my-backpack - budget breaking and nerve wracking adventure. And my only hope was that I'm getting a lower bunk bed, but surprise, surprise, all the beds in the dorms were given 💀 although I had a reservation - apparently a miscommunication, which didn't sit well with me at that level of exhaustion. Fortunately, after a few talks and almost having another girl kicked out for no good reason, I was upgraded to a neat double room, the gods of exhaustion were merciful and allowed for a restful sleep in the most comfortable bed I've slept in months! 😍
After a rough start with the hostel team not feeling very "welcomy", I was offered yet another compensation (breakfast on the house next morning), so I decided to book a few more nights with them to have sufficient time to explore the surroundings.
Many touristic objectives around Villa de Leyva turned out to be accessible by entrance fee only, which I didn't feel like paying after spending $145 in one go for the backpack recovery and locker rent (I had previously left my 2 years abroad heavier backpack in Medellin, and when checking on it's status after 25 days, I was asked to come pick it up at my earliest convenience, as they were renovating the place. Now it rests in Bogota nicely locked up for 5000 COP / day, and I travel more relaxed, just switching items every now and then). I did a lot of walking around and seeing from outside in the first couple of days (luckily I'm more into hiking than into checking in at touristy places, although I wouldn't refuse it if free of charge 😆🤳), and since initially I couldn't find a fees-free ATM (most banks ATMs here ask for an additional fee between 13.000 - 26.000 COP / $3.3 - $6.6 to withdraw money, and I like to only pay my bank if possible), I bought food, cooked almost all my meals and had a great time with the hostel team and guests, in a really amazing and relaxed family vibe.
Day 4 gets its own entry and pictures because it was an amazing life experience! On day 5 I felt confident enough to push a little more and try to get to Florián, where there are some amazing waterfalls. Unfortunately, getting there takes up to 7,5h from Villa de Leyva (not 3,5h as Google says), and I had to return after getting halfway there, since I wasn't prepared to spend the night and I also couldn't find any accommodation available online (days later I found out that they are just not on bookings, it's one of the places where you go and ask, which is better 🤫). Florián goes on my "I want to return here to see this too" list! ❤️
I left after 5 nights, heading towards San Gil, to reunite for a few days with my initial travel companion, who had chosen the coast after Medellin, when I went for the mountains and cooler weather.