Tomonoura has become a sought-out travel destination as the setting in Ponyo, Wolverine and countless Japanese films over the years. A visit to the fishing village allows travelers to think back on Japanese history and heritage about Samurai Ryoma Sakamoto, classic structures dating back over 140 years and traditional medicinal alcohol not found elsewhere.
The combination of old and new, traditional and refurbished innovation could provide inspiration for other traditional destinations across Japan, and even perhaps internationally.
Not easy to get there
In terms of minimizing numbers of visitors and maintaining a better balance between visitors and locals, the narrow streets of this fishing village cannot accommodate more than a handful of people at a time, especially if we are aiming for social distancing.
So, having certain barriers to mass tourism such as limited parking, no access or parking for bus tours, no nearby docking for cruise ships, no nearby international airport, train station and other large group tactics in use in major sites - actually creates a more manageable ebb and flow of visitors at any one time. The visitors who make their way all the way here will try to get here early or later in the afternoon because of the space limitations.
Expensive + Limited Parking
Parking fees are high, but could be seen as a type of tax to benefit the local economy if there were transparency about how some of the money was put to use, to repair old buildings for example, it would create less friction with visitors asked to pay more than usual.
Traditional townscape
A unique feature of Tomonoura is its traditional townscape. As I enjoyed a coffee in a restored 120 year old house, the owner said it was likely one of the younger buildings in the village. There are a couple of taller less inspiring buildings as you look over the village, but not in the central area to distract from the similar level of rooftops leading to the port, sea and islands beyond.
This is very unusual to find in Japan in these modern times where destinations like this which do not have UNESCO standards to uphold for building restrictions often have different styles and heights of buildings ruining the townscape.
Unique products + services
I was struck by a different type of alcohol in the souvenir and liquor shops once I arrived- it's an unusual variation of medicinal alcohol called Houmeishu. I later discovered that Tomonoura actually has two breweries for this tipple in town. I would love to see them promote brewery tours and further insights for visitors in addition to the free tastings at local shops.
Miyazaki's acclaimed animation film PONYO was set in this town of Tomonoura, but you are not overwhelmed with posters and references to the film. Instead, visitors are treated to subtle references to the film's central character along the streets and in shops. I don't know any traveler fans of the film who wouldn't love discovering these hidden easter eggs around town which blend with the traditional aesthetic.
Walkability
Tomonoura is a very walkable village as the narrow streets limit car speed and access, this enhances the visitor experience on foot. Navigation is also easy- the central stone lighthouse at the pier and the crescent shaped village wrapping around the cove with mountains at its back make it impossible to get lost. I'd love to see a ban on cars during peak hours of 10-4 accessing the central areas in order to enhance the visitor experience and improve the local residents' quality of life.
Join me as I walk through the town and discover the classic buildings, products and services:
Modern conveniences
Anyone who follows my travels knows I am always on the lookout for a cup of coffee, Japan is a great place for coffee lovers and I usually find great options no matter where I end up in cities or the countrysides. In Tomonoura, I was pleased to discover a great cafe in a restored old house. The cafe was also popular for its take-out ice-creams. At the main port area, there was another new sweets shop supplying visitors with the ice-cream they sought out to fulfill a travel must-do in the village of sitting on the stairs at the port to eat or drink while taking in the view.
What really impressed me is the plastic-free take-out containers in use at both of these modern shops. This shows more respect for a visitor seeking out a culturally and historically significant destination such as Tomonoura. It also shows more respect for the local communities which struggle with waste management issues - especially for plastics which too often end up polluting the waterways and could damage the perception of quality of a water-centric destination like Tomonoura.
Ideas for improvement
Water fill-up spots: water fountains for public use are still rare in Japan, but necessary in warmer months. Best to encourage reusable waterbottles (Tomonoura brand water bottles would be popular at souvenir shops) + link spots to MyMizu app to create wider appeal.
Pedestrianize the main village area (no cars or at least no non-local traffic) between 10-4 on weekends and holidays at minimum.
Free daily walking tour early in the day to attract early risers (1 hour morning tour to finish before 9am) - give insights on best photo spots and share insights about the village. Introduce spots connected with films, historically significant with Samurai Ryoma Sakamoto, breweries of local medicinal alcohol, local temples, viewpoint at lookout where castle once was, and more. Guides paid by local village tourism fund, end tour at a a local shop to encourage sales.