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Hidden under the light of Leshan, Jiajia ...

Hidden under the light of Leshan, Jiajiang is the place I want to eat quietly

Jun 23, 2021

I did not expect that one day there would be a long way to Leshan foreign friends, crying and telling me that he could not get the number plate of Ji Laoshi chicken ... Leshan burst into the limelight so far, none of you sitting here is innocent. It's time to pull out my big baby...strictly speaking, the last few times I've gone to Leshan in the name of "going to Leshan I went to Jiejiang, which is much closer to Chengdu, in the name of "going to Leshan". The city is so small that the third time I went there I was able to find my destination without relying on a map...

Jiajiang

One day I flipped through the photos on my mobile phone. It turned out that this place has gradually taken up my memory, so let’s take it out and expose it~ Leshan left it to those who need it more. I chose to eat and wear Jiajiang.

Jiajiang, named after "green hills on both sides of the strait facing each other, and a river flowing from the middle", is also the home of bamboo and paper for a thousand years, but it is inevitable that in the development of the times, it has gradually become lonely. The beautiful city is crowded, noisy, and a bit old, but it gives people a sense of happiness that is engulfed in daily life, just like saying that they like the cold Japanese wind, but facing the crowded and complicated American country grandmother’s home, there is still no resistance force. It's the kind of place where you come home during the Spring Festival and your dad will ask if you want to come back and find a stable job and marry a good man earlier.

Old street temptation

There is an old neighborhood in Jiajiang, roughly in the area of Shetan Street, Yahou Street, and Qingguo Street. It is a surprise that was unexpectedly discovered when walking through the streets and alleys to find food. Most of them are public houses, dormitory buildings, and large courtyards. Ten years ago, the city life in the old city consisted of the once popular terrazzo buildings and low-rise red-brick houses. The atmosphere in them really made people want to hide in them.

Perhaps it's because the people who lived in this area were all intellectuals, and the old houses couldn't conceal the carefully decorated details and find a comfortable mood in the noisy.

The streets and lanes in this area are all winding and winding. The bluestone road extends to the farthest courtyard. At the entrance of the courtyard is an old yellow ge tree, and upstairs is the mother who is teaching the children math problems. With my father who is cooking, downstairs is the uncle who goes out to buy vegetables and also takes his baby for a walk.

Although many houses here have changed owners, the atmosphere accumulated over decades still protects this place very well. I accidentally walked into a large courtyard, like the unit dormitory building I lived in when I was very young. The kids I know all grew up eating meals from various families. The small bridge and flowing water landscape that was once carefully built in the yard is now covered by huge climbing vines for more than half of their bodies.

The uncle at the door saw that we were interested, and started chatting while pulling the bench. The unit family area built in 1984 used to be the most exotic house in this area. At that time, every family moved in with joy, and it was so lively every day...

Life in the streets and lanes is much more sophisticated than in high-end commercial houses. There is no business district here, but there is no shortage of food, clothing, housing and transportation. You can solve it at your doorstep. Children like the uncle who pushes the small horn to deliver milk every day. When the 50 cents popsicle passed by, I would twist my mother to ask for money.

There is even a church here for nearly 100 years. The elder sisters who prayed hand in hand sang loudly. We walked around in the church, and then quietly stepped out. The joy of mankind is not connected, and the troubles are not connected.

Everything in Laojie seems to be on two frequencies with Xincheng, but it is more realistically contaminated with the word, human fireworks. Walking here, some childhood memories suddenly turned up, raising a little bit of dust in the memory, and then stepping out of the alley under the sunlight and falling again.

If you’re tired from shopping, it’s time for dinner. Every time I go to Jiajiang, I will list the next few meals in my mobile phone. Like me, I have delicious food in the world, and I want to get all the rain and dew, and give every shop the same love to the good girls, not many~

Bin Le snacks that do not turn off the lights 24 hours a day

This is the first 24-hour shop in Jiajiang.

We walked out of the movie theater, talking about the recent worse and worse dramas, and thinking about finding something to fill our stomachs. Like us, there are also aunts who won mahjong at midnight at 12 o'clock. They just played the wrong card when the food is still in the middle of the night, and then they played the wrong card. war.

In addition to the blue and yellow takeaway brother outside the door, there is also the elder brother who drove to order a bowl of beef noodles and tofu nao. As soon as he walked in, he struck up a conversation with the boss. fiscal?

I'm not eavesdropping, it's the voice that got into my head. If you want to say how delicious Bin Le snacks are, you don’t have to say that they are so delicious. Do you know why they are only sold at night? Because all the delicious restaurants are open during the day...

Tofu nao is Jiajiang's usual practice, which is a little different from Leshan, but it is not the focus here. It uses a lot of ingredients and has an extraordinarily heavy taste. If you eat a dry bowl, you must get up in the middle of the night to fill it with water, plus a bowl of yam or sweet waxy rice The Sanhe Clay only gained this strength.

These snacks are not so common anymore because of the time and effort. Yin rice seeds are glutinous rice grains that have been fried until they are fluffy. When they are eaten, they are boiled in boiling water, and then beaten with an egg flower. The rice grains are glutinous and sweet, and the egg flower is slippery. It reminds me of those who have pulled out my wisdom teeth. The days when you can eat corn paste...

A whole bowl without salt, mixed with egg flowers but no smell, only half a bowl was eaten to find that it was lard. The boss said that there is another way to eat it. Sprinkle a layer of crispy rice grains in a bowl and pour the cooked poached egg directly. It is also a crispy and tender meal. I used to eat Sanhe Mud in Chengdu when I was a child, and I have completely forgotten the taste. Bin Le’s bowl of black and glutinous glutinous Sanhe Mud, one spoonful of it, I went for a walk with my mother after dinner, and then I met you When it comes to the sanhe mud just out of the pot, I have to take a bite.

Black glutinous rice, soybeans, sesame seeds, and indispensable lard are soft and fragrant. Under the dangling lights of Bin Le, there was no feeling of late night except for the "Don't Make Noise" on the wall. There are lads who urged to turn over and close the table, bring their girlfriends to watch a movie after supper, and some friends who came across by chance, quietly helped to settle the bill, and faked an old man at the door pushing goodbye. The nightlife in the small town, though There is no pleasure of verb hitting, and there is also a rhythm that you are used to, which is difficult to break.

Just like that night, we have gone all the way, and the sweet taste of glutinous rice is still in our mouths.

Tofu brains who can't tell the winner

The existence of the Tofu Nao restaurant in Jiajiang is similar to the hot pot restaurant in Chongqing. If you are hungry at any time, go downstairs and find a restaurant to eat. It was also after arriving in Jiajiang that I learned that my Leshan tofu brain enlightenment started from Jiajiang, which laid my foundation for my deep-rooted obsession with Jiajiang tofu brain and the judgment based on it, Leshan's tofu. In my mind, I add soft boiled vermicelli, while Jiajiang's tofu nao is sprinkled with fried noodles and crispy noodles. This is a routine with my beloved Camellia oleifera! There are so many tofu brain shops here, and everyone may not recognize the no.1 in another person’s heart. The Shuming, Zhang Yan, Liuliu, Bamai, Yang Tofu brains I have eaten... almost all have their own support. Bao (We came out of Zhang Yan's tofu brain, and met the uncle who was waiting, with an indwelling needle in his hand).

· Shuming Tofu Nao & Zhang Yan Tofu Nao

My preference is Shuming Tofu Nao. Compared to Zhang Yan, it doesn't have that heavy soy sauce flavor, and the chili oil will be more fragrant.

A large bowl of tofu nao, thick and solid, not only regular spicy, but also sweet and sour spicy, steamed dumplings are the simplest pork and shallots, the dough is translucent, dipped in red oil, and sweet and lingering.

The elephant said that there were not so many beef tofu brains and pork tofu brains when I was a child. The shredded chicken tofu brains are already very delicious. Although they are not as "slaby" as the current large bowl of meat tuotuo, they are actually ten. The taste is not greasy for a few years.

· Liuliu Tofu Nao vs Bamai Tofu Nao

Tofu Nao is inseparable from Liuliu and Baan. The two shops are on both sides of the same intersection on the same street, with the same number of shops and aunts with the same voice. After more than 30 years of competition, no one was willing to move away. They occupied both sides of the gate and looked at me as I was passing by. Ba Niang took the lead in throwing the skill "Sister is coming to eat tofu brain" because the position depends on six As Liu got closer, Liu Niang immediately followed up with a big move, "Come to us, sit down here."

The difficulty of making a decision at this intersection is almost the same as whether it is a big or a small one. In the end, because he couldn't refuse any aunt, he couldn't eat two bowls at a time, and no one went. Rejecting the enthusiasm of Liuliu and Bamao, you may fall into the enthusiasm of the other two women.

Behind the gates guarded by the two tofu brains, there are noisy tea shops and card tables. More than 20 shops are operated by two tea shops. The bosses are all women who sound like a big bell. Obediently, only the boss shuttled to add water, pour tea, and say hello. Passers-by like us didn't notice it at first.

The heirs of the beef shop

As soon as he entered the store, the boss just said "drinking?"

Four Seasons Beef Shop was once next to the wholesale market in Jiajiang, where people doing physical work came and went. The most important thing about taking a rest for a meal is that it has a large portion and good taste. Two years ago, the old shop was demolished and moved to a brand-new Xincheng district. Nothing was taken away, but the plaque was taken away. The beef dishes in the store are mainly beef dishes, almost all of them are fried, boiled, stewed and fried. I thought that another person who loves beef so much is Zigong. It is also because the former salt workers needed large pieces of beef to provide more physical strength. Because there are only 2 people, I can only control the little hand who orders, and three dishes are served on the table.

Most of the Sichuan restaurants that make beef have a strong taste, and here is no exception. A fried beef liver is sweet and salty, tender, and tastes much more delicate than pork liver. I dried 2 bowls of rice; white tripe soup, stewed tripe The white soup is delicious, but a few more monosodium glutamate are sprinkled, but the overall taste is clean and neat. The small green vegetables and the innocent tripe are very refreshing.

The only fly in the ointment is the steamed beef with glutinous rice, which is dry in the mouth. It seems that too much powder is added, which delays the taste of the beef. Wangshi's beef, heavy-tasting dipping saucers, 30 to 40 years of operation, the shop has been uploaded from the old boss to the current daughter-in-law. From a few dollars in the past, it’s no more than 20 yuan. The older generations have saved a home for themselves.

Sign and sign

Mala Tang, skewers, bowl chicken, barbecue... none of them can't be tied with a sign. If there is, then two. When eating in a small city, no one keeps turning off the fire, no one asks you if you want to fly cakes, there is no paper for 2 yuan a pack, and there is no peculiar operation of 4 sticks of chicken tip.

· Ping Ge Mala Tang

Ping Ge Mala Tang was the first Mala Tang I ate in Jiajiang. At that time, I didn’t expect that this place would one day make me crazily typing and outputting. It was just like "Wow, this is delicious!" In the voice of "order beef and county liver", he completed his belly rounding.

In the process of eating, I can always hear the "superiority" of those who have spent their childhood here—it is the taste of childhood. Mala Tang is mainly the taste of a dipping dish. The taste of a pot of cooking. Whether the dipping dish can make the tip of the tongue tremble determines whether this Mala Tang can be opened. The smaller the city, the more you are eating. It is far more difficult to do a good job and satisfy the picky of repeat customers than to fool a stick business.

Niuhua Luyuan

Originally, there was a Mala Tang called Lvyuan in Niuhua Town, which was the same as another in the same town, except that it didn't catch the tip of the tongue and failed to become an online celebrity shop.

However, many Leshan friends around me have definitely stated that Luyuan is delicious. Jiajiang Niuhua Luyuan does not seem to be one of those chain stores, but a local store. The earth-flavored legends hanging on the wall are nothing more than to have a relationship with the emperor who likes to go down the south of the Yangtze River. It proves that he has a long history and is nothing important.

But the difference is that this family has abandoned the fine tradition of dipping dishes and has to play by themselves... but the ball ball boss can still eat him. I also want to talk about what is good about this restaurant, but nothing more than the beef is very fresh, and the meat is full of flavor. The bottom of the casserole is indeed more mellow than stainless steel. The greens are fresh and the taste is sweet, not spicy. Spicy stomach is worthy of a meal for people like me who don't like spicy taste.

However, it seems that it is really mediocre and delicious... Instead, I am wondering now, what will the store that stepped on thunder taste like?

Taste a bunch of incense

Called Chuan Chuan Xiang, but in the business of Bobo Chicken.

The location of Wei Yi Chuan Chuan is a bit different from the map, but if you go there late at night, you can see it nearby. In a dark alley, only one lamp is shining.

Here is the tofu bubble I have been thinking about for a long time, stuffed with crispy shredded radish, and stuffed it into my mouth in one breath. The tofu bubble soaked in the soup is soft and tender, and the scalloped radish squatted.

The soup base of Weiyi has really made me curious all the time. Obviously it doesn't have a particularly eye-catching taste, but it just makes you want to keep tasting it to find out what it is. Let's put it this way, even if its ham sausage is starchy when it enters the mouth, I still like the layer of juice wrapped on the outside.

Yipin Chuanchuanxiang

My real name is to boast about this Bobo Chicken (cold skewers as the locals say), which can knock down all the restaurants in Chengdu. That's right, it's the kind that can be served together.

The soup base is heavier and more spicy than Weiyi. Although there are also tofu bubbles, I don’t dare to get bored when I eat spicy slag. I twist and squeeze out some spicy oil, and then eat it carefully. After all, choking in the nose, the macho couldn't help crying.

The Yipin’s kohlrabi must be tasted. It is crunchy and sweet. With the addition of soup and spicy oil, it is an excellent appetizer no matter if it is served with wine or empty mouth. I even suggest the boss to copy Luyuan The story of the emperor, also make one for rutabaga.

The chicken feet in this restaurant are also the best! Both boneless and boneless are available. Boneless is better. The whole is cut and boneless. Not only the soft and waxy claws, but also the crispy muscles. Be sure to choose the chicken feet that have been soaked for a long time. The dripping soup hidden in the meat cracks, the spicy oil wrapped on the surface, the spices and salt deep inside, made every tooth cheer, and even a little bit sorry for my 4 wisdom teeth that I didn’t have the chance to feel... …

Meng Niang BBQ

All the props for Meng Niang’s barbecue were piled up in the small room like the former guard room. A stove with a strong fire and a grill that was so hard to see that it was plated with oil and water, because at the entrance of the middle school, Meng Ma’s hand barbecue started around 1998 and has not been cut off until now. It has fed the students for several years. Some students became teachers and came back to continue eating.

There are a lot of varieties here, the half-wall menu, you can see the eye dazzling, everything starts with 5 strings, but the portion is not a lot. There are regular customers in the store who say that the third best thing here is beef, pork belly and spare ribs. Fresh pork ribs are very tender! The pork belly is crispy, the fat is reserved, and there is no possibility of a little greasy. The beef is grilled a little dry, strong but effortless, and the eggplant and white melon are just tender to the tip of my heart, especially the eggplant wrap. Served with crunchy chili noodles, the inside is roasted until tender and melted...

Mengmao’s barbecue belongs to the old-school Jiajiang barbecue. The dipping sauce is not the same as the barbecue you’ve eaten in the past. It is not the kind that emphasizes the taste of cumin. A big mouthful of Weiyi or Emei Snow.

She opened her arms again and again, and stopped placing orders until she couldn't squeeze more air.

Snack on the brakes for it

Liu Bingfen

It is said that Liu Bingfen has been opened for more than 100 years, but the boss himself can’t tell which year it started...

The ice powder enthusiasts have eaten almost all over the corners of Leshan, starting from Chuanmeiermen Keluoque, until now, you can only eat a bowl when you go to the back door to find the boss.

Liu Bingfen can be regarded as Jiajiang's famous taste, but it doesn’t have the strength I imagined when hand rubbing ice powder, and I am not even willing to use the ingredients. A little bit of hawthorn (I love hawthorn!) The brown sugar ice powder is also a sparse bowl. It is not unpalatable, but the expected value is too high and the sense of gap is too strong.

On the contrary, the taste of brown sugar cold cakes is online, and the glutinous jelly is chewy, and it has a hand-made feel compared to many cold cakes. The boss also makes bake cakes. Maybe he is busy opening the branch with apprentices. I got the bake cakes with exquisite shell packaging, but the bake cakes themselves are not well formed, and the fillings are also Almost melted away, losing the taste it should have. It’s not bad to talk about feelings, just talk about feelings is boring...

Huang Niang Niang Pancake

The Huang Niang Niang pancake next to Liu Bingfen is really amazing.

A small cart sells pancakes, dried tofu and tofu puffs, and they go out in the evening. People who are good for this will feel the time, which is a tacit understanding with Huang Niang.

The dried triangular tofu that has been deep-fried with clear vegetables, the shell is already crispy and slag, Huang Niang lightly makes a cut, and fills the dried tofu belly with sweet and spicy shredded radish and crispy soybeans. Dip it in the sweet and sour sauce, it is sweet and crisp, and the taste is really amazing.

I kept the Huang Niang stuffing me dried tofu while mumbling and chatting. "Qianwei has only 2 delicious dried tofu, our family and another, the other is my sister.

Huang Niang is "not appreciative" of other dried tofu, because the third sister and brother in the family make dried tofu. My sister has been doing it for 30 years and Huang Niang has also been doing it for 20 years. In recent years, my younger brother has also joined the business.

Because everyone loves to eat, Huang Niang will go out the stall almost every day, rain or shine, but the cart is not so stable. Huang Niang has rented a shop on Xiaodong Street recently. I will not be afraid of not being able to find her in the heavy rain in the future. "No. 44 over there" Huang Niang pointed to me happily.

Song Jia Ye Erba

On the West Street in the West Gate of Jiajiang, there is a Ye Erba that has been open for more than ten years. It took two visits to stop the boss who was about to close the door.

"It’s usually sold out at noon when I’m lazy." Fortunately, the boss did a bit more diligent today, and it was my turn to be eaten by a lazy party like me. The store also sells rice noodles and noodles for breakfast, but everyone comes here to buy Yeerba by default. A large tank of freshly made noodles was being mixed, and there was not much Yeerba left in the pot, so I hurriedly put in a bag, for fear that the grandmother behind would even bring the pot to me.

Jiajiang’s Ye Erba is a big bag of food that I have to take with me every time I eat and drink to Chengdu. It is frozen in the refrigerator and can be eaten for a week. The glutinous rice flour is wrapped in salty and delicate meat fillings. It always makes me feel that there is either pepper oil or vine pepper oil in it. The smell of hemp is really refreshing in the morning.

Although Ye Erba is not difficult to make, the difference in deliciousness lies in the subtle ingredients. The lazy boss will not tell me. If you want to eat, you still have to get up early to buy a bag.

Yu Duck

I just learned a Leshan dialect two days ago. In 1982, it corresponds to the Leshan dialect, which is "duck feet"... The ducks in Leshan, like the rabbits in Zigong, cannot leave alive.

Since its opening in 1996, Yu Duck has almost been a sweet duck that everyone has eaten. The sales volume of hundreds of ducks a day is a place where ducks are frightened... Every time we go back to Chengdu from Jiajiang, we must go to Yu The duck snapped at the door, half a duck was eaten, a whole was not eaten, half was cut into pieces, and half was cut into pieces. The cut pieces were for eating on the road, or the whole for going home.

I remember the first time I went to buy it. It was less than 10 o’clock in the morning. I was stunned when I looked at the empty shelf. The first round of ducks just flew away. Fortunately, the owner’s motorcycle pulled the duck and stopped behind me—— In a square metal box, there is a duck that has just been blanched, and it smells fragrant when the lid is opened-otherwise I might cry. When the freshly blanched duck tastes the best, I can’t help but sneak a piece of it while cutting it. The tight taste makes it feel like a healthy duck. From my personal taste, it is indeed better than what I had eaten in Leshan before.

Yu Duck has firm meat, less fat, outstanding stewed aroma, crispy skin, excellent syrup, sweetness, and color. You can't get any water after a bite. The taste is dry, and the more you eat, the more delicious it is!

Liu Niang Rabbit Head

Liu Niang's rabbit head close to the Internet cafe is a must for e-sports teenagers to replenish their brains.

In a pot with a depth of one meter, a large pot of old stew is boiled. The rabbit head is marinated ahead of time. When the diners shout, the kitchen will put the pot out, and it will be hot and delicious when it is rolled.

The head of the rabbit is as tasty as the mother's. The cheeks, heaven, and tongue are all excellent parts. People with bad teeth can't chew on the heavenly spirit cover, and they will miss the brain inside. It is also a delicate and excellent taste.

After eating one, it is often spicy, but not uncomfortable, so the best seller in the store is boiled beer, which is sold in a pot, not even a plate of peanuts, just this rabbit head, and it will be round. I sweat a lot in winter, go home and take a hot bath to sleep. In summer, among a group of brawny guys who are shirtless, I don’t know if the blush is because of the rabbit’s head or the big guy...

I packed a few rabbit heads and went home. Along the way, the scent that can't be blown away when the window is open. My way is too shallow, I can only gnaw the five spice, and the spicy rabbit head can only think about it with my nose.

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